Breitling honours its aviation and space icons with an array of releases, including the Navitimer GMT and Automatic 41, and a limited-edition self-winding Cosmonaute.
As watchmaker Breitling turns 140, it celebrates with new releases of two of its most iconic collections – the Navitimer, the first wristwatch for pilots to combine a chronograph and a computational slide rule; and the Cosmonaute, a 24-hour take on the Navitimer that became the first Swiss wristwatch in space. The new Navitimer GMT and Automatic 41, and the new self-winding Cosmonaute capture the brand’s heritage and design language to perfection.
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Time to Fly
Breitling played a key role in the emergence of commercial flight. Its onboard timekeepers became standard equipment, first in propeller planes and later in the jets produced by the world’s leading aircraft manufacturers. When the design of the Breitling Navitimer came out in 1952, it was an instant hit with airline pilots in the then-nascent field of civil aviation.
The Navitimer featured a circular slide rule that allowed pilots to make critical calculations, such as rate of climb and fuel consumption. In those glory days of commercial air travel, the Navitimer was the original wrist-worn onboard computer and ultimately established Breitling as the “Official supplier to world aviation”.
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Today, then watchmaker continues updating the Navitimer collection with two new pared-down executions: a GMT and a three-hand Automatic, each in a universally wearable 41-mm size.
These pieces distill the Navitimer’s iconic look, omitting the chronograph yet preserving a balanced dial composition. The central placement of the 24-hour scale on the GMT and the Automatic’s clean face ensure the intricate slide rule stands out while streamlining the overall aesthetics.
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Further refining the collection, Breitling has incorporated a notched bezel for a contemporary touch, and alternating polished and brushed finishes that add a dynamic play of light. Straps in alligator leather and bracelets with a seamless butterfly clasp offer comfort and convenience.
The palette includes black, blue, silver, ice blue, and green dials, encased in stainless steel or 18 k red gold, and a two-tone variant for the Automatic. The full-gold versions carry the Origins label, signifying responsibly mined gold in line with the Swiss Better Gold Association’s environmental and social standards.
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The Cosmonaute B12
In 1962, Mercury Seven astronaut Scott Carpenter approached Breitling with a unique request: to modify the Navitimer’s design for space exploration. Admiring its computational prowess, Carpenter asked for a 24-hour dial to distinguish day from night in orbit. Breitling met the challenge, and the customised Navitimer, later dubbed the Cosmonaute, accompanied Carpenter on his May 24, 1962, mission to become the first Swiss wristwatch in space.
To mark Breitling’s 140th anniversary, it is releasing a limited edition of the 24-hour timepiece. This time, however, the main modification isn’t for zero-g but for everyday life: a self-winding chronograph movement, the Breitling manufacture caliber B12.
The new release is limited to 250 pieces and only available through Breitling’s online and in-store boutiques. It features an 18 k red-gold case, beautifully complemented by its deep green dial, golden numerals, and black alligator leather strap.
Flip the watch to see the open caseback view of the contrasting oscillating weight capping the B12 movement. The manufacture caliber provides approximately 70 hours of power and comes with a 5-year warranty. A caseback engraving states the “One of 250” limitation and reveals the watch’s incredible story: “First Swiss Wristwatch in Space/Navitimer Cosmonaute May 24,1962.”
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