Step back in time, to the 1980s and beyond, with the new dim sum brunch at Hong Kong’s Chinesology.
It’s often said that when a society feels the pinch, when the economy takes a downturn, or when its population is struggling to climb out of a slump, they turn to better times past. Perhaps as a coping mechanism, we naturally become nostalgic when things get tough, pining for a different, simpler or more prosperous time.
In fact, the Greek words for return and suffering are “nostos” and “algos,” respectively, and the literal meaning of nostalgia is the pain from an old wound, translated today as the suffering caused by the yearning to return, either to home or to better days. We find comfort in selected memories, curated slices of the past, from familiar foods to favourite video games, television shows and even clothing, to help dull the anguish of now. Deep, right?
Tapping into all that yerning and angst, Chinesology at Hong Kong’s IFC Mall has launched the 1980s Dim Sum Delights menu, a nostalgic spring brunch menu that will have you feeling sated and hopeful in no time. Created by culinary director and chef Saito Chau, this spirited feast of yesteryear includes free-flow dum sum dishes and the option to dull the edges with a free-flow beverage package.
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Reviving the traditional savoury and sweet fancies of the 1980s with a touch of modern joie de vivre, the restaurant’s dim-sum creations, set against the restaurant’s opulent interiors and stunning harbour views, are a testament to the chef’s meticulous craftsmanship, honouring the centuries-old culinary art while incorporating a tinge of innovation.
Available from noon until 3 pm, the new Back to the ’80s Dim Sum Brunch kicks off with a platter of tiny appetisers – the Five Fortunes – including free range egg mousse; chilled Botan shrimp with heady 20-year Huadiao rice wine; Hong Kong jumbo razor clams with chilli; a refreshing blend of Italian tomato, seaweed, and vinegar; and pickled Scallion with fruity roselle and tangy vinegar.
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While the signature soup – a blend of sea cucumber, winter melon, bamboo fungus, carrot oil, chicken oil, and ‘superior soup’ might not be for everyone, mains are sublime, and range from lobster with Sergestid shrimp sauce and handmade rice flour rolls; and free range chicken with wild mushroom, lotus root, and chives; to dried South African abalone with goose web, and a secret sauce.
However, if you’re honest with yourself, you’re here for the unlimited dim sum, which runs the gamut from minced pork xiao long bao dumplings, each of which is twisted at the top 18 times; and sui mais stuffed with lean minced chicken and quails egg (did you know the sui mai was first created during the Yuan Dynasty, 1279-1368; to egg yolk corn puddings with collagen-filled soup centres (the chef calls it a ‘bite-sized soup); har gow with tiger prawns and minced pork; kale and vegetable dumplings; mushroom and pepper taro pastries (above); and even wild-caught mottled spinefoot and 15 year old tangerine congee.
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You can also step back with the timeless classics of crispy shrimp spring rolls and fried wontons with sweet and sour sauce while staving off that hangover with the likes of mini sticky rice parcels with minced pork and egg yolk; and handmade rice flour rolls with XO sauce. And if you have a sweet tooth, the desserts range from tragacanth gum soup with Iranian pistachio; and passion fruit pudding with chia seeds and coconut milk; to the classic egg tart, an authentic Hong Kong recipe that will evoke memories of the city’s past glories.
Of course, it wouldn’t be brunch without booze, and you’ll have the option of signature cocktails like the Bamboo Punch, with Shanxi bamboo leaf-infused Chu Yeh Ching Chiew stirred with homemade five-spice cordial and sparkling wine; and the elegant Southern Sidecar, a blend of VSOP cognac, kumquat liqueur and ginger spice. Alternatively, there’s a wide range of sparkling and still wines and mocktails with which you can raise a glass, toast, drink and reminisce.
“These fragments I have shored against my ruins” ―
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