Spirit brand manager at Jebsen Wines F& Spirits, Alberto Aldave discusses Hong Kong’s cocktail scene and the importance of staying true to the classics.
As the days of lockdowns become increasingly dim memories and Hong Kong’s nightlife scene once again flexes its muscles, we talk with Spanish veteran mixologist and brand manager Alberto Aldave, whose career spans five-star hotels and award-winning bars, about his time in London’s most iconic venues, how Hong Kong’s cocktail scene is evolving, and the importance of respecting tradition in the face of innovation.
You originally studied to be a filmmaker. What drew you into the world of mixology?
During the crisis of 2008, I gave up film school and went to London, where my first job was in a cocktail bar.
You started your career in London, tell us about the cocktail scene back then at the bars you worked at.
I started in Bar Américain at Brasserie Zédel, Soho by Corbin & King, where my head bartender, Lee Hyde, was the third runner-up in the Best Bartender of the Year by IBA, so I had the chance to learn classic cocktails and mixology from one of the best mentors I could have. Back then, Artesian at The Langham London and Simone Caporale were leading the cocktail scene internationally. Then, I moved to The Chelsea Harbour Hotel & Spa, home of the Chelsea Football Club, until they called me to be part of the new team at The Ritz London‘s Rivoli bar.
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And what brought you to Hong Kong?
The CEO of Dining Concepts, Sandeep Sekhri, the biggest F&B group in Hong Kong in 2017, contacted me and asked me to work for him. He offered me the group beverage manager role, and to be in charge of all new openings.
What qualities does a good bartender possess and how is that changing?
Communication skills are a must, as is knowledge about the products, from different cocktails to all the spirits we use. A bartender must also be charming, and polite, and their grooming must be impeccable. Bartenders don’t have to just create cocktails but must also follow the history and the trends. When a bartender works in a cocktail bar doing sophisticated drinks and creates new takes, he earns the title mixologist.
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How about the expectations of customers? How are they changing and what do bar owners and bartenders need to be aware of?
The customer expectations are different in each city. For example, in Bali, they will demand more tropical or refreshing drinks, while in London they will demand more classics with specific spirits. What’s always a point of discussion is price vs quality. Customers wouldn’t mind paying US$20 for a cocktail at The Ritz but they will expect a very expensive glass, good garnish, a good taste and quick service. Customers always demand quick and friendly service, and the more knowledgeable the bartender, the more complete the experience.
As a customer, I know what I like, and for me above all else, the bartender must understand what I want, which is usually an extra-dry vodka martini with an olive. It’s a very simple drink, but sometimes they put in too much dry vermouth, lemon zest, or olive brine – extra-dry, dry and dirty are all very different martinis.
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What are some of the trends we’re seeing in Hong Kong’s cocktail scene?
Hong Kong became an international city for cocktails thanks to the influence of Asia’s 50 Best Bars. In my opinion, this organisation is not fair at all, and is not comparable to Michelin stars for restaurants, for example. Most of the bars listed are great, offering a fantastic experience by some exceptional mixologists, but being in the top 50 needs to mean more than just having a good network.
Trends in Hong Kong are dominated by Rotovap and molecular cocktails, followed by sustainability. It’s very rare that you see a bartender doing a real Martinez, or who knows the difference between a sweet Manhattan and a perfect Manhattan, or the difference between an extra-dry or wet Martini. They will know how to make their own vanilla syrup or to use agar agar to clarify, but not how to make the classics.
It’s 6 pm on a Friday evening – where would we find you and what would you be drinking?
I usually prefer quiet places where I can talk, surrounded by people I know and bartenders who know me so it’s more comfortable. There are not a lot of quiet places on a Friday evening but The Daily Tot or Penicillin are great.
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You organise a lot of cocktail competitions in the city; how do the next generation of bartenders compare to bartenders past and what drives their passion?
In Hong Kong, there are a lot of different types of bartenders; some that want fame; some that want to be better bartenders and to improve their confidence; some that are being forced into competitions by their bar managers to put their bars on the map, and some that use the competitions for networking. Overall, it’s good to have them all and see what they can bring and showcase.
I see that some bartenders are confused because the trends in HK are always changing and the trendy bars dictate if those trends are cool or not. In any case, the winners are always individuals who are passionate about what they do and who really want to win, for the prize, fame or reputation.
What are some of the most exciting bar concepts you’ve seen in Hong Kong in recent years?
In HK, you see cocktail bars with really cool designs and concepts. Some of my favourites have been Lockdown, Savory Project and Bar Leone – they’re all nice, straightforward concepts.
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Bartenders and bar owners are increasingly investing in technology and equipment to give the mixology experience more depth and to create new drinks; do you think these modern cocktails will ever replace the classics?
I think so; we are facing a 21st-century view of everything, including cocktails. Mojitos and Margaritas will always be there but with time, the classic ways and the basic skills are often forgotten. For example, it’s very common to see a bartender in LKF shaking a Mojito or doing a Margarita on the rocks as standard.
Who are some of the bartenders you most admire in Hong Kong?
I really respect all of them; I think this industry is tough and my fellow bartenders’ dedication is awesome. Regardless they are doing good or not, or if their vision is more likeable, everyone contributes a little so it’s hard to to pick one, but I think the leaders here are Jay Khan, Lorenzo Antinori, Agung Prabowo, Antonio Lai and Beckaly Franks.
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If you were to open your own bar, what would the concept be and would it be in Hong Kong?
I have a few concepts in mind that I wouldn’t want to disclose until it happens. However, I wouldn’t mind opening in HK or other cities.
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