Delivering a touch of Californian coastal living to Hong Kong’s Soho dining precinct, Big Sur has become an instant classic, discovers Nick Walton.
It’s surprising that, given Hong Kong’s affable climate, there isn’t more al fresco dining in Soho, a culinary destination dominated by an ever-changing kaleidoscope of restaurants popular with the city’s black suit brigade. The crowds that cling to the curbs outside spots like Chom Chom and Staunton’s certainly testify that many diners like being outside, a cold beer in hand.
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Fortunately, the precinct’s newest all-day dining venue, Woolly Pig Concepts’ Big Sur, captures the essence of the Golden State with blissfully unpretentious, Latin-leaning, barbeque-bolstered comfort cuisine, a brilliant beer selection, and best of all, tables under the stars.
Of course, getting one of those tables is the tricky thing. While it’s recommended you book ahead for a table in the bright and airy main dining room, the wise will also arrive early to snap up one of the unbookable glass bar tables ranked beside Staunton Street.
In accordance with Hong Kong’s curious property laws, the outdoor tables don’t come with restaurant service, but that shouldn’t stop you from popping inside to order from the 14-strong tap beer menu created by local craft brew gurus Young Master, or exercising the demons of the work week with a shot of small-batch tequila and a housemade sangria chaser.
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Once you plant your flag indoors, it’s time to graze through American chef Conor Beach’s eclectic menu, which hopscotches its way across California’s many culinary influences. Kick off with the Baja Tacos with grilled prawns and housemade Sur-izo, little parcels of punchy flavour that kick the palate into gear.
For something more substantial we opt for the Big Sur Mixed BBQ Plate, which comes heaped with Santa Maria-style tri-tip, pulled pork, grilled big Sur-izo, Memphis ribs, BBQ beans, coleslaw, and housemade Sichuan cornbread. The tri-tip was perfectly cooked, and the ribs slipped off the bone with a sigh (although that might have been my dining companion) and the cornbread had a delightful hint of heat, although I found the pulled pork a touch over seasoned.
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While the BBQ plate is going to sate every appetite, other highlights worth exploring include the zesty chicken satay salad; the pepper jack cheese pop overs; the herb haloumi with spicy Salvadoran pickle, and the sweet potato fries. The desserts are suitably decadent, with the daily pie adding to Big Sur’s modern diner vibe.
In fact, there really is something for everyone (the Feed Me Better BBQ set does the thinking for you), with the dinner menu complementing Big Sur’s all-day offering, which ranges from fresh pastries and coffee during the day, to delectable bar snacks to match with your small-batch mezcal cocktails or Young Master brew (the Mott Street Milkshake was an absolute winner).
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Whether you’re looking for happy hour or a happy stomach, Big Sur is a destination that evolves through the day and into the night and one that’s already forging a loyal following among Soho-goers who no longer want to cling to the curbs.
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