Don’t be fooled – Shelley Tai means serious business when it comes to cocktails. Having cut her mixology teeth at some of Hong Kong’s top clubs and restaurants, including Drop and FINDS and now Antonio Lai’s Quinary, the recent winner of the 2019 Diageo Reserve World Class bartending competition speaks to Gayatri Bhaumik about getting her start, her favourite spirits, and finding inspiration.
What drew you to bartending?
I kicked off my bartending career working part-time in a club, while also working full-time at an office in a normal desk job. I preferred working at a nightclub where I could have fun while earning some extra money. After a year of working at my desk job, I quit to become a part-time bartender.
After working as a mixologist for some time, I came to believe that being forced to interact with people helped me overcome my introverted and shy personality. I also found that there was a lot of knowledge to be gained from bartending and mixology, so I wanted to dive deep into it.
What are your favourite spirits to work with?
I’m a fan of dark spirits like whiskey and cognac. With their comparably richer flavours and thicker textures, I can pair them with more ingredients and methods in order to make a wider variety of cocktails. I love a good Old Fashioned, and my twist involves using a little more bitters, and rye instead of bourbon.
How do you find inspiration for the cocktails you create?
I love going on food discovery adventures; it doesn’t matter if it’s a simple dai pai dong or a high-end restaurant, I usually find inspiration just like that. At Quinary, our team loves discovering the unique tastes of Chinese food, and we incorporate it into our seasonal menu by using black glutinous rice or having cocktails that taste like siu-aap (roasted goose) for example. I also love experimenting with different elements that I come across in daily life and use them to create drinks.
You’re also an accomplished chef. What similarities and differences do you see in cooking and creating cocktails?
I believe that cooking and mixing drinks are quite similar, mostly because of the flavours. When you think of drinks, it’s normally sweet or sour, but I can utilise savoury or even bitter flavours to showcase the base spirit’s unique points. The biggest difference would be using different techniques or forms to present the finished product. Again, some examples of using cooking ingredients in cocktails at Quinary include black or white glutinous rice and dried Chinese vegetables.
You recently created a special cocktail in collaboration with Hennessy V.S.O.P. How did this come about and what inspired the drink?
I wanted to change the public’s perception of Hennessy V.S.O.P. It’s a spirit with history, but it’s usually seen as old, strong and straightforward. I wanted to create something that everyone could drink, and that isn’t too strong. I don’t believe in a ‘girl’ drink or a ‘guy’ drink, so I created a floral, fruity cocktail that brings out the flavours of V.S.O.P without overpowering it.
What spirit do you feel is trending at the moment?
Gin. Like Dr. Fern’s in Hong Kong, there are more and more bars based around this one spirit. There can be a lot of different flavours and pairings with ingredients to make cocktails or even food pairings. Gin’s easy to work with and very easy to drink, even for a beginner drinker.
How do you see the cocktail scene evolving in Asia?
I see more bartenders seeking inspiration from chefs, or using different culinary skills, to increase the market for food and alcohol pairings. In Hong Kong, I am seeing different styles of cocktail bars, including those that are focused on single spirits. In the 1980s and 90s, most clubs and bars were making drinks to cover the real smells and tastes of spirits; now, Hong Kong bars are trying to bring out the natural tastes of the spirits and complement them with the right ingredients.
With the cocktail scene in Asia, I foresee even more exchanges of bartenders in different countries, especially within Hong Kong, Singapore, Thailand and Vietnam.
For someone that doesn’t really like cocktails, what would you suggest they try?
I would say, “Ask your bartender!” Your bartender can usually suggest something according to your personal preferences, whether you like sweet, sour, smoky or floral flavours. I usually ask: if a customer wants something fresh or straightforward; if a customer has a preference in spirits; and if a customer prefers a sweet or sour flavour profile.
What are some of your favourite bars in Asia?
In Hong Kong, I love Room 309. It’s the whole package – cocktails, friendly bartenders, a warm atmosphere and a cosy space. In Taipei, I highly recommend Aha Saloon. I’ve yet to come across an American-themed bar that serves very good standard cocktails in Hong Kong, but this is one.
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