The current World Bartender of the Year, Leo Ko, has put iconic Hong Kong drink yuen yeung on the mixology map – but you can usually find him mixing up martinis inside the Alibi bar at the Cordis Hotel
Having scooped three awards at the World Cocktail Championship 2023 – World Bartender of the Year, Cocktail of the Year (Low ABV Category) and Best Sensory Skill – Cordis Hotels’ director of beverage Leo Ko is busy establishing himself as one of the city’s foremost mixologists, driven by a philosophy that’s devoid of rigid rules and recognising that everyone has distinct preferences when it comes to cocktails.
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The competition, which was held in Rome last November, saw mixologists from 68 countries and regions compete for the coveted titles. Ko’s Low ABV cocktail took the essence of Hong Kong’s iconic local drink, yuen yeung – local-style milk tea mixed with coffee – and reimagined it as something that would resonate with Italian coffee culture.
With a nod to the host country, Ko used an Earl Grey Campari mix and Cinzano Bianco Vermouth in his winning cocktail, which he named Came to Connect. (If you want to try something similar, opt for the Gimme Chocolate at Cordis Hong Kong’s Albi bar, a yuen yeung-inspired mix of tea-infused whisky, evaporated milk, instant coffee and tea syrup).
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So, how does he manage to craft cocktails that meet the expectations of each guest when he’s behind the bar at Alibi? It’s about observation and experience, he says. “From the moment a guest comes into the bar, I start to observe their gestures, attitudes, behaviour and facial expressions to determine their mood that day. But it’s not just the mood that affects guests’ taste preferences but also the surroundings – the atmosphere, temperature, noise and so on.”
While he’s proud to bring yuen yeung to a new audience, Ko admits that he’s usually busy behind the bar mixing martinis. “After rounds of rounds of trying and learning, martini has become my best cocktail!”
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Congratulations on your trio of wins. What do you think appealed to the judges about your mixology skills?
I felt very excited when the result was announced, but as soon as I got the awards, I realised that the titles bring more responsibility, and I need to be a role model for the mixology world. My foundation is steeped in Japanese bartending skills, but I incorporated ideas from the west into my cocktails, and I think that appealed to the judges.
What does yuen yeung mean to you – did you grow up drinking it?
The first time I drank yuen yeung I found it very strange. First, I’m not a coffee person; and second, a mixture of milk tea and coffee is just strange to me. However when I grew up, I started to understand the unique culture behind this drink, which represents Hong Kong’s multiculturalism.
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What’s your plan now?
After winning the awards, I want to promote bartending and mixology culture within Alibi and in Hong Kong as a whole, and bring more opportunities to the new generation keen to join the industry.
How would you define Hong Kong’s cocktail culture?
To me, drinkers in Hong Kong tend to expect bartenders to create a good cocktail within a very short period of time because of the fast-paced life of the city. So preparation is crucial.
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How do you build a rapport with guests?
By talking to guests, I will remember their individual preference and their drinking habits, and can craft a cocktail that meets the guest’s expectation next time.
You have been actively involved in local, regional, and international competitions. In addition to this competition, what are some other career highlights?
The Monkey Shoulder Ultimate Bartender Championship in 2018 is another highlight in my career. My mentee invited me to join the competition with him to gain experience. Eventually I was crowned champion and he got second runner-up.
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You started as a bartender with Cordis, in 2014. What do you remember about those early days?
I only started to try spirits when I was a bartender in Cordis and I remember that I found them all the same. It was my mentor who shared with me wine and liquor knowledge, supported and encouraged me so that I became interested in spirits and mixology.
You’ve also shared your expertise through cross-training initiatives with sister properties like Artesian Bar at Langham London. Tell us about that
Bartending in Europe is different to Asia. I was particularly impressed with the menu design and glassware used by Artesian Bar (above). Their glassware is specially designed and tailor-made… such practice is rarely found in Asian bars.
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What cocktails do you like to drink when you’re off duty?
I like gin and tonic and High Balls. I make my G&T with one part gin, three parts tonic water, and lime.
What’s next for Alibi in 2024?
Our goal for Alibi (above) is getting into The World’s Best 50 Bars list.
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