Acclaimed Michelin-starred chef Daisuke Mori combines his Japanese heritage with classic French technique to create one of Hong Kong’s most coveted dining experiences. He speaks with Nick Walton about respect for ingredients, creating balance, and the city’s dynamic dining scene.
Where you always destined to become a chef?
Yes. My father is a chef specializing in Italian cuisine and has a restaurant in Japan. I was always very impressed by my father’s profession and his attitude towards the restaurant business.
With touches of both Europe and Asia in your menus, where do you find inspiration for your cuisine?
Hong Kong is a cosmopolitan city with great examples of Western and Asian cuisines finding harmony together. As Japanese, I grew up learning how to appreciate quality ingredients and a “less is more” philosophy. While I was trained in traditional French technique, I can create well-balanced dishes based on my heritage and culinary experiences.
You studied at Osaka’s Tsuji Culinary Institute; what’s one golden rule from those early days that you’ll never break in the kitchen?
Just like any Japanese chef, “respect” is the one important golden rule for me. Respect my kitchen team, respect the elder chefs, and most important, respect the ingredients. It’s also important to me that there is no wastage in the kitchen.
Who has had the most impact on your career as a chef?
Professionally, Alain Soliveres from Le Taillevent. His attitude is very inspiring; he still works very hard (he was always the first one to arrive in the kitchen and quite often, the last to leave). Emotionally, my father as he has always been a big influence in my life and taught me how to be a good chef and to be proud of a job in the kitchen.
French and Japanese culinary traditions have their similarities but also their contrasts; how do you balance these timeless styles?
I am inspired by the best available produce from both France and Japan, embracing both Japanese simplicity and classic French technique. For example, we recently did a dish with snow crab ravioli but instead of using pasta we made the ravioli skin from Japanese turnip, which is sweet and crunchy. Japanese and French cuisines place the focus on the ingredients, their textures and flavours, and I think this dish did just that.
Takumi by Daisuke Mori seats only 12 diners; what does this setting offer chefs that a conventional restaurant doesn’t?
This setup allows me to greet and talk to each of my guests; I am able to explain the concept of every dish and I’m able to pay attention to guests’ expressions and understand if they are having a good meal or if they have doubts over a dish. This personal touch is important to me.
Takumi is all about seasonality; what are some of the ingredients you’re experimenting with now?
Japanese hairtail; not a good-looking fish but the flavour is absolutely fantastic. Truffle season is around the corner, so white truffle is something I’m working with at the moment.
You earned one Michelin star at Takumi; how important is Michelin acclaim?
I earned my first Michelin-star when I was 34 years old, and it was absolutely a dream came true. My father was proud which motivated me to want to be better. This recognition allows me to be bolder with my menu – as guests are expecting new flavours the possibilities become endless.
How do you see the gastronomic scene changing in Hong Kong?
Restaurants open and close in the blink of an eye, which means it’s hard for the city to maintain quality. However, the average palate of Hong Kong diners is improving, so I believe restaurants with smaller menus will do well.
Your new summer menu is bursting with flavour and seasonality; what’s your favourite dish from the new line up?
The Tachiuo Tempura & Winter Melon with Shiitake Consommé is definitely my favourite dish; I love soup and I always try to create complex flavours and textures for all my soup dishes.
For more Wining & Dining inspiration click here.