The military’s all well and good, but following rules and answering to authority figures? Not so much. Luckily at Rajasthan Rifles in Hong Kong, you can get a taste of colonial military life while playing by your own rules.
Army Style
The latest venture by Black Sheep Restaurants, Rajasthan Rifles pays tribute to one of the most infamous regiments of the British-Indian Army of the early 20th century. The casual eatery is modelled on the officers’ mess halls of the era, with a convivial atmosphere allowing guests to relax with drinks and the unique Anglo-Indian food the mess halls were known for.
Black Sheep Restaurants do themes well, and it’s no different with this restaurant which occupies prime position on The Peak. Mini canons stand guard at the entrance, and staff are dressed in kitsch uniforms inspired by of-the-era military costumes (though if we’re honest, it comes off more Jack Black in Jumanji than fearsome warrior).
Even the menus are appropriately themed. The drinks list is called Butt & Barrell, looks like a military dispatch, and features a notation that “The Mess rule dictates that if more than one toast is to be drunk, the procedure must be repeated.”
The main food menu is appropriately titled “The Officers’ Mess” and featured cheeky messages like “Mess decorum dictates that politics and religion may not be discussed on premises” (high-society bible Debrett’s would certainly approve) and “It is considered bad form to discuss ‘shop’ i.e. official matters in the mess.” So we actually have to make social conversation? We can fall into line with that.
A Culinary Melting Pot
Like the rest of the restaurant, the menu pays tribute to the cultural mash-up that is the Anglo-Indian cuisine the British-Indian Army mess halls were known for.
Heading the kitchen here is chef Palash Mitra, who spearheaded Black Sheep Restaurant’s New Punjab Club to Michelin-starred glory. Some of the food translates to the new restaurant’s menu, but don’t think of this as a cheap imitation.
This is not an Indian restaurant, and you would be doing it a disservice to go in expecting butter chicken and vindaloo (though those are available, too).
We started with a small portion of the mulligatawny soup, which is worth trying if only because you probably haven’t had it before – this “English” soup from Madras features chicken, celery and rice and is a really unique blend of English ingredients and Indian flavours.
One thing you absolutely shouldn’t miss, though, is the Keema Anda Pau. Think of it as the Indian Sloppy Joe – a perfectly spiced mush of slow-cooked mutton paired with fluffy buttered milk buns; it’s heavenly.
The Anglo side of the menu are represented by sizzler plates – meat or fish served with buttered veggies, thick chips, and sauces. We tried the Soola Salmon, and while it was well-seasoned and cooked appropriately, didn’t quite seem to sit well with the rest of the food we tasted. The Pedro Vindaloo – a Goan curry prepared with prawns, white wine vinegar and garlic – was much more the thing.
A word about dessert: There are two on offer, and they’re both delicious. Do yourself a favour – order both and split it. You don’t often find posset on Hong Kong menus, but this one is a lemony delight; the bread and butter pudding is classic perfection.
Liquid Courage
The Rajasthan Rifles were known to enjoy a good drink and get a little rowdy, so it’s appropriate that the eponymous restaurant would have a drinks list that honours this libatious legacy.
We started with a staunchly English Minted Pimm’s Cup, and the concoction of Pimm’s, mint, lime juice, ginger ale, cucumber and white ale was very definitely cricket. With gin, absinthe, lime, soda water and mint, The Rifleman’s Rickey was equally thirst-quenching and easy to drink.
Good to Know
The restaurant also has a little alfresco terrace with superb skyline views peeking through the potted plants. If the weather holds, snag a table here.
Verdict
There’s a lot to love about Rajasthan Rifles, from the well-executed theme, great drinks and certain dishes. On a Thursday evening two weeks after opening though, the restaurant was pretty quiet and you have to wonder if The Peak is the best location for this venture.
Nonetheless, with a brunch service due to be introduced in the following weeks, we’d be interested in going back for more.
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