We’re fans of the finer things in life, but when it comes to restaurants in Hong Kong, we’ve had to compromise a little. But with the opening of Louise, we’ve finally got a new fine-dining French concept we can really get behind.
Parisian Chic
Chef Julien Royer has been racking up the accolades for his Singapore restaurant recently, but Hong Kong diners can finally get a taste of the Odette hype at Louise. A collaboration between Royer and JIA Group, Louise invites diners into an exquisite at-home dining experience with all the flair of a French gastronomic savant.
Taking over the PMQ space formerly occupied by Jason Atherton’s Aberdeen Street Social, Louise is a stylish duplex created by designer-of-the-moment Andre Fu (he’s also responsible for the new St. Regis Hong Kong).
Downstairs, the bar area is dressed in deep greens and browns, offering a cosy space for intimate date-night cocktails and light bites. Upstairs, the bright, airy dining room is flooded with natural light through floor-to-ceiling windows, there’s plenty of space between the tables, and an open kitchen and staging area brings a theatrical element to the experience.
Staff here are attentive (but not intrusive) and knowledgeable, so if you need a little help with the wine list of fancy French terms, just ask – there’ll be no judgement forthcoming.
A Fine French Feast
The food here is firmly French, paying homage to the country’s culinary traditions in beautiful, well-executed dishes that are, in a word, sumptuous. The menu is a collaboration between Royer and executive chef Franckelie Laloum – who, incidentally, earned his own Michelin star at Azure 45 at the Ritz-Carlton Tokyo.
We were at Louise for lunch, so decided to go for the three-course lunch menu; there’s a two-course version available if you’re not hungry or want to skip dessert (please, don’t). The choose-your-own sets highlight the best of the restaurant’s a la carte menu, and we definitely weren’t disappointed.
After an amuse bouche, we had the smoked organic egg with potato, chorizo and buckwheat as an appetiser. Inspired by Odette’s signature dish, this was a moreish symphony of flavours and textures – I would happily have had seconds.
For mains, I ordered the beef cheek. Marinated for 24 hours in red wine and slow-cooked for five hours, the jus was rich without being overpowering, while the meat was so tender you could easily eat it with just a fork.
I’d intended to skip dessert, but was persuaded to try the “Mama Royer” yoghurt cake with yoghurt ice cream and confit lemon made to Royer’s grandma’s recipe. Light, not overly sweet, and with well-contrasted textures, this dessert is an absolute must-try.
Good to Know
It’s only been open two weeks, but Louise is already reaping the benefits of Odette’s success – the restaurant is already packed, and you’ll need to make a reservation at least two weeks out if you want a table.
Verdict
There are restaurants opening every day in Hong Kong, and it’s not often that a new one lives up to the hype. That’s definitely not the case with Louise. This has been the name on everyone’s lips since the JIA Group-Royer partnership was announced, and the anticipation was valid.
It’s a great concept, and everything from the food and drink to the service and design is stellar. If there’s a fault to find, it has yet to be discovered. We’ll be going back for more.
Check out Alpha Men’s Wining & Dining page for the latest F&B in Asia.
