Maddeningly frantic, yet ancient, colourful and completely unthawing, India remains one of the ultimate rides for fans of two-wheeled tenacity. Jack Southan gives us his favourite motorcycle routes in the subcontinent.
The Kerala Loop: Kochi – Kochi
Riding through Southern India, up into the remote Western Ghat mountain range on a looping circuit of about 500km, this trip starts in Kochi, the old Portuguese colonial city in Kerala, before winding its way through the jungles and dusty roads east, up into foothills of the mountains.
The change in scenery is dramatic along this route, starting from the scorching lowlands, up through deciduous forests, into the cool misted tea plantations which blanket the hills. It crosses through ice and rain at its peak and then drops down through desert-like roads into the meadow-lands of the northern section.
It is possibly one of the most beautiful motorcycle routes to ride in India and is completely off the usual tourist trail. The roads are good for most of the way too which makes riding a great pleasure and accessible to all.
The Leh Road: Manali – Leh
As far as travel by motorcycle in India goes, this is probably the country’s most famous route. Striking out through the valleys and passes of the Himalayas, the road twists its way through the mountain trails up onto the dramatically barren expanses of Ladakh. It is truly one of the most adventurous, jaw-dropping rides, not just in the country, but in the world.
The going can be tough as the roads are mostly unpaved and very uneven, so it is certainly not a route to start out with or attempt as a complete novice. Head out from the laid-back hill station of Manali and ride north towards the snowcapped mountains.
The ride should take between 3-5 days depending on how hard you push, but slower is often better in the mountains. However long you decide to take, it will certainly be some of the most dramatic, memorable riding you will ever do.
The Goan Beach Tour: North-South
This can be considered as the most accessible ride for new and inexperienced motorcyclists. The roads are excellent, often quiet, and the distances are shorter than other routes. whilst the adventure factor may not be huge, the beauty of the scenery more than makes up for it.
Starting in the north of the state, the route leads south meandering along the sandy coast. Take as long as you like because this ride is all about riding the back roads, through banana plantations, fishing villages, and undiscovered beaches. Goa is obviously a tourist hub so parts of it are not so special for the adventurer – Baga and Calengute are mobbed with partygoers, so avoid them if you’re not into that scene.
Instead, head for Anjuna and Palolem as your stopovers. They are the most relaxed and feel more authentic. Though with so many wonderful stops, it’s entirely up to you, and that’s the beauty of this ride.
The Darjeeling Tea Road: Siliguri – Gangtok
Although Siliguri isn’t a highlight in itself, it’s a good place to start the ride north and has facilities to get yourself set. The road out of town winds uphill, freeing you of the scorching temperatures of the Indian plains as you enter the cool winds of the Himalayan foothills.
The road is a mass of hairpin bends, snaking their way upward – it is fun to ride, though occasionally a little nail-biting. The way is very weather dependent however and things can change quickly at altitude. One moment you can be riding in glorious sunshine, the next you can be enveloped in a thick blanket of fog, with zero visibility.
Stop in Darjeeling for a day or two to explore its magical atmosphere before heading north along the rough trails towards the mystical city of Gangtok. The way can be hard but it will definitely be some of the most pristine riding around; with views of Mt Everest and Mt Kanchenjunga along the way, it’s impossible not to be impressed.
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