With a new two-for-one concept, Hong Kong-based Pirata Group is offering a little something for all diners in Sheung Wan with the opening of Honjo.
If you head down Queens Road West, in Sheung Wan, and don’t walk past the blink-and-you’ll-miss-it entrance, you’ll find Honjo, a sophisticated new restaurant housing a collection of design-forward spaces and serving well-thought-out food and drink.
A Stylish Space
Walking into Honjo feels a little like stepping back in time, and then going on a world tour. Interiors are vaguely Art Deco-
There’s the Red Armoury with its full set of Kendo armour; the library-like Blue Suite; and the lush Safari Room, which is done up with luxe furnishings, thick woven rugs, vintage Orrery chandeliers and a wallpaper that recalls a lush rainforest.
In the Safari Room, we’re gathered around a big table in the centre of the room, but there are plenty of booths for diners seeking a little privacy, and even a sushi bar with solid red bar stools in case you want to peek at the chefs while you’re eating.
Attention to detail can really make or break a restaurant, and Honjo manages to wield this in its favour. Before the meal, wet towels are passed around for dirty hands; as dishes are served, we get serving chopsticks as well as personal ones; and we get to pick our own sake glass from a curated selection of different styles.
Fancy Japanese with a Twist
The kitchen here is headed by executive chef Miguel Huelamo, and though he takes his cues from Japanese techniques and flavours, you shouldn’t expect a traditional Japanese meal. The menu here draws from various styles of Japanese cuisine but is geared towards modern sensibilities, with dishes made with global flavours and techniques.
We start raw with a delicious wagyu carpaccio topped with chorizo oil, Asahi
Another standout was the tempura lobster, which felt like fancy comfort food and gets as many points for presentation as taste. It went well with the equally moreish charred corn, cooked in miso butter, shichimi and parmesan.
The only thing that didn’t quite work was the whole chicken stuffed with rice, mushroom, pancetta, hazelnut and ginger roast sauce. It sounded like a great idea, but it didn’t translate very well – the chicken was a touch dry, and despite all the different ingredients, the dish was a little bland.
Sake and More
Honjo has a surprisingly extensive drinks list to accompany its food. There’s a good selection of sake, from well-known brands to boutique labels, and a wine list that spans the globe.
Pirata’s usually good at putting together a creative cocktail list, and the bar at Honjo is no different. I tried the Nomunication, a concoction of Tanqueray No. 10 gin, Charles Heidsieck Champagne, lavender syrup and lemon juice, which was well-balanced and packed just enough punch.
Good to Know
Just below Honjo, sister restaurant TMK is a rock’n’roll temakeria serving hand rolls, sake and plenty of sass. This is the restaurant equivalent of a let-your-hair-down dive bar.
Verdict
Pirata’s pretty good at coming up with restaurant concepts people love, though at times the food can be a little hit or miss. With Honjo, though, the dining group delivers on looks, food and drinks.
Check out Alpha Men’s Wining & Dining page for dining inspiration in Asia.