From supreme complications to minimalist yet masculine additions, these are some of our favourite new timepieces from the recent Watches & Wonders showcase in Switzerland.
For the modern gentleman, Watches and Wonders is Mecca with a Swiss twist—a horological spectacle where luxury meets legacy. Held annually in Geneva, this invite-only affair gathers the world’s elite watchmakers to unveil their latest masterpieces – think sapphire-encased tourbillons, ceramic-dialed GMTs, and skeletonized marvels that scream precision and power.
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Watches & Wonders is not just a trade show; it’s a sensory overload of craftsmanship, where Asia-Pacific’s tycoons and tastemakers rub elbows with the globe’s horological aristocracy. Here are some of our favourite new releases.
Klepcys Vertical Sapphire Tourbillon Blue
A masterpiece of transparency and innovation, the new Klepcys Vertical Sapphire Tourbillon Blue is a striking new timepiece from Swiss time bandits Cyrus Genève that’s powered by a movement developed by Jean-François Mojon, featuring a remarkable vertical tourbillon and a fully sapphire case.
A true expression of horological artistry, this latest addition to its renowned Klepcys collection, and one that’s limited to just eight pieces, the new tourbillon is presented with a precious sapphire crystal case with 18-carat white gold elements and details in a vibrant electric blue shade.
A. Lange & Söhne
German high-end watchmaker A. Lange & Söhne‘s new Minute Repeater Perpetual in 950 platinum features the newly developed Lange manufacture calibre L122.2. Filled with black enamel, the dial is crafted in-house, while the immaculate, glossy black surface offers the displays and the characteristic Lange outsize date an elegant stage, providing a contrasting backdrop, thus assuring excellent legibility. The subsidiary dial at 9 o’clock accommodates the day-of-week and the 24-hour displays while a second one located at 3 o’clock is graced by the month and leap-year indications. A third subsidiary dial at 6 o’clock showcases the small seconds and the moon-phase display: both moons in 750 gold are surrounded by more than 100 hand-engraved stars.
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Presented on a black, hand-stitched alligator leather strap, the timepiece’s chiming mechanism strikes the hours, sounding at a low pitch, the quarter hours with a double tone, and the minutes that have elapsed since the last quarter hour with a higher-pitched tone. The impressive duet delivered by two differently tuned gongs comprises a repertoire of 720 different sequences – one for every minute in the twelve-hour cycle. Meanwhile, the sapphire-crystal caseback reveals the orchestrated movements of the gong hammers and the gongs.
Tank Louis
Cartier‘s new Tank Louis introduces new dimensions while maintaining the elegance and clarity of its refined design. Throughout its history, the Tank watch has undergone a remarkable transformation, and its lines have evolved.
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Now, Cartier has drawn on the original 1922 design to imagine a larger version featuring a next-generation mechanical Manufacture movement with automatic winding. Integrated while respecting the lines and proportions of the Tank, this movement, named 1899 MC, allows for the enlargement of the Tank Louis Cartier, available in both pink gold and yellow gold.
Ingenieur Automatic 42
IWC Schaffhausen has introduced the Ingenieur Automatic 42 in black ceramic, combining the Gérald Genta-derived integrated bracelet design with a full ceramic execution for the first time. To achieve a faithful ceramic translation of the emblematic design, the watch features an innovative multi-part ceramic case construction.
The new model is also distinguished by a high level of detail in the finishing of its ceramic components with a combination of satin-finishing, sandblasting and polishing. The IWC-manufactured 82110 calibre with a Pellaton winding system, ceramic components and a power reserve of 60 hours is visible through the tinted sapphire glass case back.
Top Time Martini Racing
Breitling returns to its boldest 1960s design with new additions to its Top Time Racing chronographs, each limited to 750 pieces. We particularly like the new timepiece resulting from a collaboration between Breitling and Martini Racing, the Top Time Martini Racing, which takes its cues from one of the most celebrated liveries of all time.
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Its dial is dominated by Martini Racing’s signature blue, light blue, and red stripes – a colour combination that has left rivals in the dust for over 50 years. Like its Top Time Racing counterparts, it features a modern-retro take on the cushion case, squircle subdials, and the unmistakable dashboard dial design. Sized at a sleek 38 mm, it’s paired with a perforated dark blue leather racing strap.
Big Bang 20th Anniversary
To celebrate the 20th anniversary of Hublot’s Big Bang collection, the watchmaker has revisited some of the most significant milestones, combining the original Big Bang’s design with the current Big Bang Unico, resulting in five limited edition Big Bang models. Each of the five editions combines the most emblematic details from the first Big Bang models and the later Big Bang Unico, making these 20th-anniversary pieces commemorative by bridging the past, present and future of the Big Bang.
All five models – including this striking number in red ceramic – feature a redesigned case with the distinctive layered construction that recalls the earliest Big Bangs with pinched lugs and a knurled bezel edge, as well as the distinctive Big Bang silhouette. The engraved dials with a carbon fibre-inspired relief motif feature the iconic riveted Arabic numerals and indexes filled with Super-LumiNova as well as two counters, one for the small seconds at 9 o’clock and one for the minutes of the chronograph at 3 o’clock, driven by the Unico automatic manufacture chronograph movement.
Big Pilot’s Watch Shock Absorber Tourbillon Skeleton XPL
IWC has also used the Watches & Wonders event to launch the Big Pilot’s Watch Shock Absorber Tourbillon Skeleton XPL, a timepiece that marks the first time that IWC uses its patented SPRIN-g PROTECT shock absorber system to protect a tourbillon against shocks. For the new addition, the cantilever spring was completely re-designed and adapted to accommodate the IWC-manufactured 82915 calibre with a flying minute tourbillon.
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To reduce the mass of the movement and maximise the system’s performance, the plates, bridges and the rotor are skeletonised – also offering a better view of the complicated mechanics and the bulk metallic glass (BMG) shock absorber spring inside. This highly complex watch in a technical design features a Ceratanium case and crown. It is fitted with a black patterned rubber strap with a Ceratanium pin buckle.
The Récital 30
Continuing the legacy of the limited-edition Récital 28, a ground-breaking grand complication and the first mechanical timepiece to solve the Daylight Saving Time issue plaguing previous world timers, the smaller day-wear Récital 30 by Bovet is limited to 30 pieces (the 28 was limited to 60) and uses a unique system of 25 four-sided rollers to ensures that the wearer will always accurately know what time it is anywhere in the world.
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With the 42mm Récital 30, wearers can take that travel experience to the next level and actually allocate the city names that show on the dial, as well as choose from a host of colours for the 24-hour dial and minute track. Its sleek case is available in Grade 5 titanium or 18K red gold while the movement allows for a 60-hour power reserve.
Quadruple Complication
Patek Philippe has welcomed an exceptional watch destined for true connoisseurs, the Quadruple Complication Reference 5308G-001. Presented as a world first in a limited edition in platinum, this self-winding timepiece
unites a minute repeater, a split-seconds chronograph and an instantaneous perpetual calendar with
aperture displays.
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The striking timepiece’s new caliber R CHR 27 PS QI movement is particularly notable for its optimised
performances and two patented innovations concerning the split-seconds mechanism. This feat of
miniaturization and energy management are housed in an elegant white-gold case framing an ice-blue
sunburst dial.
Pilot’s Watch Performance Chronograph Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month
IWC Schaffhausen has also launched the Pilot’s Watch Performance Chronograph Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month, which combines a case and bracelet made of Ceratanium, a black ceramic bezel with a tachymeter scale and a black dial with a hammered texture.
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The perpetual calendar displays the date and the month in digital format using large gold-coloured discs. The new watch is powered by the IWC-manufactured 89802 calibre with a power reserve of 68 hours. Visible through a tinted sapphire glass case back, this highly engineered mechanical movement consists of 474 individual parts and also drives a chronograph function.
Rolex GMT-Master II
Rolex has just dropped a horological bombshell at the crossroads of innovation and elegance—the Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II, now sporting its first-ever ceramic dial. Crafted in lustrous 18 ct white gold, this stunner flips the script with a winding crown on the left and a date window at 9 o’clock. But the real showstopper? A vivid green Cerachrom dial that syncs flawlessly with the green-and-black bezel insert, proving that harmony can be as bold as it is refined.
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The 40mm Oyster case—waterproof to 100 meters—houses the calibre 3285, a technical marvel with a 70-hour power reserve and dual-time mastery. Paired with an Oyster bracelet and Oysterlock clasp, it’s rugged luxury at its finest. Priced for the elite, this Superlative Chronometer (think -2/+2 seconds daily precision) is your ticket to ruling two time zones in style.
Freak One Navy Blue
The Freak ONE NAVY BLUE from Ulysse Nardin is a core addition to the watchmaker’s iconic Freak One collection, presented in an alluring, head-turning deep indigo. Paying homage to the original ‘Freak’ of 2001, the new 44mm addition boasts a striking titanium and black DLC accented case, water resistant to 30 metres, and a dial constructed from recycled carbon fibre composite.
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Powered by the self-winding Calibre UN-240 Flying Carousel movement, which lends the savvy urbanite a 90 hour power reserve, the timepiece is presented on a rubber strap in the same mesmerising deep blue hue.
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