Blending the culinary traditions of China, Japan and the Netherlands, Wakaran is Wan Chai’s new hotspot for fusion dining.
Are you an indecisive diner? Don’t laugh just yet – this could be serious. At every gathering there’s one person who agonises over their choice of starter and main; who frets about fish or chicken, and who pounces upon the waiter for recommendations, daily special, off-menu exclusions, black market opportunities and insightful suggestions, anything that will alleviate the oppression of indecision. Fortunately, there’s a new eatery in Hong Kong that, while it won’t make decisions for you, will be a panacea to those looking for culinary diversity.
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Wakaran is a new Wan Chai hotspot that tells the story of three cuisines – in fact its name is actually a rather pleasing portmanteau of Japanese (Wa), Chinese (Ka) and Dutch (Ran) references – and their marriage in the early days of Nagasaki Port, once a melting pot in ancient Japan (ahh, we see someone’s been watching Shogun). Paying homage to this cultural collision, Wakaran, located on Ship Street, offers a cross-cultural gastronomic exploration, employing the finest ingredients and techniques from each.
Catering to just 45, the intimate eatery’s dining room is dressed in a blend of burgundy and chartreuse punctuated with abstract AI-generated artworks, with French windows framed by black iron matched with black timber floors and vibrant white brick walls. The best spot in the house has to be the kitchen counter, where you can watch the action of the culinary team, let by head chef Tommy Tsui, formerly of Plaa Modern Thai, J.A.M Joint Asian Market, and Miss Lee’s Vegetarian.
Whether you’re popping in for a post coalface libation, or for something a little more sating, you’ll find inspiration, with the menu ranging from potato crab millefeuille, topped with sweet and zesty mango salsa mixed with fresh crab meat and garnished with grated bottarga; and truffle sesame doughnuts, inspired by the classic Chinese deep-fried Jin Dui glutinous rice balls, stuffed with three types of mushrooms and topped with Comte cheese and shaved truffle; to the Amaebi Crudo, fresh Japanese sweet shrimp served raw in a vibrant and zesty sauce made with red pepper, fresh tomatoes, citrus and a hint of red chilli.
For something a little more satisfying, you’ll likely want to try the Japanese-style grilled skewers, cooked over an open fire; and grilled squid with chili sauce and baby gem; while the KFC 2.0, deep-fried deboned local triple yellow chicken and cauliflower glazed with a sweet and spicy yuzu chilli sauce, will make you think you’ve died and gone to foodie heaven.
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If you’re feeling a little adventurous you might even want to try the whole smoked pigeon, a tribute to Hong Kong’s popular staple, marinated in a Chiu Chow-style Lo Sui made with 13 kinds of herbs and served with grilled Maitake mushroom and a tangy dipping sauce made with red pepper, red wine vinegar and Japanese seaweed. Alternatively, gather the lads and order the devilishly good boneless suckling pig, which is slow-cooked for 13 hours in a Sancho pepper marination.
If you’re looking for something to wet your whistle between courses, Wakaran also does a mean Highball, the innocuous libation of the travelling man; the Calamansi Hi features barley Shochu, vodka, fresh calamansi lime and soda; while the Tiki-Tiki blends coconut-washed whisky, fresh lime and soda.
Isn’t it beautiful when cultures come together?
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