You might have noticed it’s white truffle season again. To ensure you know your tuber brumale from your tuber melanosporum, we talk with acclaimed chef Umberto Bombana of Hong Kong’s Otto e Mezzo, one of the few Italian restaurants outside Italy to have received three Michelin stars, to get the low down on this coveted ingredient.
What is it about white truffles that make them so coveted by chefs and diners alike?
There are two key aspects, the first of which is the white truffle’s rarity. Often crowned as the ‘white diamond of the table’, white truffles can only be found in the wild between October and December, and because they are only found in the wild, they are often subject to natural factors like weather and soil quality. The second most important aspect is the scent. The Tuber Magnatum Pico (the white truffle exclusively found in Alba), is the most fragrant one among all varieties. It possesses a pungent, unique yet irreplaceable scent, which makes it a supreme and delectable ingredient.
For someone looking to buy whole truffles, what should we be looking for?
Contrary to common belief, looks don’t matter, it’s all about the smell. Close your eyes and use your instinct to smell the finest truffle. While you may buy a truffle whole, eventually it will be shaved, and the resulting scent is the determining factor of quality.
However, there are other factors as well, including texture – slowly feel the truffle by squeezing it between your fingers (but don’t squeeze so hard as to damage it); fresh truffle feels stiff and firm so if it’s too soft, it means it’s not the freshest, and might not give the best aroma.
When it comes to weight it might be confusing as many truffles look similar in size – what you’re looking for is weight in your hand. This indicates more water content, which means a fresher truffle.
When it comes to looks, ugly doesn’t mean bad. When you see a truffle full of holes, it means it’s been favoured by snails, which means a potent truffle. Snails are unexpectedly a great natural connoisseur, always picking the finest truffles. Finally, in terms of presentation, don’t be surprised to find whole truffles still wrapped in soil, it’s about maintaining that freshness.
What’re the best ways to preserve a truffle’s flavour and aroma?
There’re several common ways to preserve a truffle. Moisture is the biggest enemy of the white truffle, therefore keeping the truffle dry and crisp is crucial. Usually, we wrap the truffles with absorbent paper towels or rice and store them in glass jars to keep the moisture from spoiling them. However, truffles lose their aroma as time passes, so don’t be afraid to eat them quickly!
What are some of the best ways to enjoy white truffles at home?
Many Italian households savour white truffles in the simplest, traditional ways – a simple pasta with some cheese and butter can really bring out the natural aroma of truffles. Often customers will purchase their white truffles from restaurants and then store them there, leaving the truffles in the chefs’ good hands to prepare some delectable dishes.
Is it true pigs are used to sniff out the Alba white truffle?
Yes! They have a great sense of smell that can identify truffles almost a metre underground. However, one of the problems is that the pigs sometimes will eat the truffle if you’re not quick enough to pry it from its grasp. Truffle hunters also use dogs to sniff out truffles, because dogs can be trained not to eat the truffle immediately when it’s unearthed.
What are highlights from your white truffle menu we can’t miss?
I like pairing fragrant white truffle with equally delectable ingredients, such as warm lobster, “Taiyouran” organic egg, parmesan, mushrooms and many more. However, the killer dish is our roe deer with porcini crust, chestnut gnocchi and natural jus, paired with Alba white truffle. For me, the whole dish blasts captivating flavours and joy.
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