Crystal Leung takes a perch at Pazzi Isshokenmei, Hong Kong’s newest culinary fusion of gastronomic cultures.
In the ever-changing foodscape of Hong Kong, one that’s always hungry for new ideas, we’ve seen many restaurants putting forward fusion dishes that redraw culinary boundaries and breathe new life into the industry. While this trend embraces creativity and facilitates cultural exchange, it’s also a risk that can make or break a chef’s reputation. Taking on the challenge, Pazzi Isshokenmei is the latest venture to open at H Queen’s, Central, and blends comforting, flavorful Italian fare with the disciplined Japanese cooking tradition.
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Always in search of innovative recipes, we head there to check out if this new restaurant successfully marries the best of both worlds or regrettably triggers confusion on our taste buds.
With a chandelier mounted on the soaring ceiling, cool whitewashed walls adorned with art pieces, and bright natural light courtesy of floor-to-ceiling windows, the 6000sqft fine-dining restaurant is designed with elegance and sophistication in mind. Starting off our gastronomic journey, we’re served a bowl of edamame coated with truffle dressing and crispy bread crackers complemented by jalapeno cream sauce, which wakes our palate with a spicy kick.
Following up are the eye-pleasing Tokyo burrata, which pairs succulent, sweet Japanese peaches with the silky Italian cheese; and the simple yet delicious prosciutto di Parma, served with a drizzle of honey that balances out the saltiness of the ham and the grilled scamorza cheese. Sitting on a pool of refreshing citrus sauce, the beef tataki, with slightly seared and marinated meat enveloping crunchy Japanese scallions, is the perfect overture to the heavier mains to come.
When it comes to Italian cuisine, pasta is the soul. Giving this staple a delightful twist with a much-loved ingredient from Japan, the uni tagliatelle is a heaven for the fans of sea urchins. Though I have to admit that these buttery lobes are not as luscious as the fresh ones in Hokkaido (sadly, it’s a memory from before the pandemic), the dish still delivers a tidal wave of oceanic flavour in every morsel. The sauce of the miso crab tagliolini injects the al dente pasta with a light umami undertone, while the red prawn udon is cooked with a rich, tangy tomato sauce and enlivened by the minty shiso herb that is widely used in Japanese cooking.
For meat lovers, the cubed A4 sirloin is tender and seared at the edges, with a generous lashing of garlic chips elevating its flavour and texture. The marinated tomatoes on the side are perfect to carry away the grease left on your palate.
The highlights of the meal have to be delights of the handroll trolley, where you can see up-close how your uni, otoro, or avocado sushi is made; as well as the soft, milky Cremia ice cream with matcha tiramisu. It is a sin to push aside this delectable dessert even if your gym effort is going in vain.
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With a spacious, elegant ambiance and creative dishes that bridge two distinct cultures, Pazzi Isshokenmei is an ideal option with which to impress your business partner or significant other. An invite-only cocktail bar is also going to be unveiled soon where you can stretch the night to your heart’s content.
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