Helmed by industry stalwarts and located in Bali’s vibrant Berawa, Mosto is Indonesia’s first natural wine bar.
Taking its name from the Italian for must, the pulpy, freshly pressed unfermented grape juice that kickstarts the wine making process, Mosto is at the keenly sharpened edge of a wine movement that’s making its way across the region. It’s a fitting addition to the Berawa foodscape; nestled between Seminyak and Canggu, the neighbourhood is home to some of the island’s most dynamic culinary destinations, including Uni, Neighbourhood, and speakeasy Shady Pig. With its laid back European ambiance and wine list packed with hard-to-souce natural vinos, the 70-seat Mosto fits right in.
This is the first venue for partners Isabella Rowell, Lorenzo Depeteris, Nicolas Lento, Federico Sirito, Denny Bakiev and Vanessa Di Maria – all permanent fixtures in Bali’s pioneering Mexicola Group (Da Maria, Luigi’s, Motel Mexicola) who, together, bring decades worth of industry experience to the table. The collective is also behind the Lazarus Pulp project, responsible for producing and bottling Indonesia’s first pet-nat, The Alter Ego, in 2021.
Inspired by Sydney’s flourishing wine bar scene and the neo-bistros that have reinvigorated Paris, Mosto is a manifestation of what the drinking and dining experience should be in its purest form – from the pared-back design to the forward-thinking yet accessible menu and, of course, the cocktails and list of low-intervention wines.
“We want it to feel like an extension of your lounge room, where the quality and integrity of everything in the glass or on the plate are second to none, but never get in the way of comfort or having a good time,” says Rowell.
Sommelier Nicolas Lento (co-founder of Indonesia’s only natural wine importer/distributor, Toto Wines) has assembled a collection of more than 70 labels from small producers around the world, never before seen under the same roof in Indonesia. Organic and/or biodynamic wines fermented with native yeasts, no fining or filtration and low/no sulphur added are the focal point, with a flexible format that allows for drinking by the glass, carafe or bottle, as well as the option to take away. New releases, rare cuvées, special events and international wine fairs and celebrations will also be a regular part of the offering.
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Cocktails, meanwhile, come care of Denny Bakiev (beverage director for the Mexicola Group) and are a nod to the classics while incorporating experimental flavours and a zero-waste ethos – think a Yuzu Gimlet with mint and cardamom, for instance, or a Caffè Latte Negroni spiked with milk-washed espresso, in addition to ever-changing specials based on repurposed leftover ingredients or house-made vermouths and digestifs.
As for the food, executive chef Lorenzo Depeteris serves an all-day menu comprising seasonal snacks and small plates designed for sharing, drawing on his Italian heritage and time spent in some of the world’s most renowned Michelin-starred kitchens, including Le Gavroche and The Waterside Inn in England, and Sicily’s Duomo. Highlights include potato and San Daniele prosciutto croquettes; skewered ox tongue with salsa verde and gnocco fritto; raw scallops dressed in wild mushroom dashi and burnt butter; and the island’s best chicken liver parfait, served with sumac onions and ancient grain sourdough.
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Service, overseen by Federico Sirito and Isabella Rowell (both of whom honed their skills working alongside famed restaurateur Maurice Terzini in Sydney and Bali) is a direct reflection of the striking, elegant and easy-going vibe of the space, brought to life by Kelvin Ho’s Sydney-based studio Akin Atelier that sees raw materials like polished concrete, painted brick, pebblecrete and terracotta dominate both the breezy outdoor seating area and earthy interiors, complemented by an eclectic mix of fixtures, art and upcycled accents.
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