With the launch of The Aubrey’s new Kaizen cocktail menu, we talk with Devender Kumar about the growing influence of Japanese ingredients on the Hong Kong cocktail scene.
In collaboration with Maximal Concepts, Japanese izakaya The Aubrey, located at the Mandarin Oriental Hong Kong, has launched Kaizen, the third chapter cocktail menu and one that incorporates Japanese shochu into a raft of delectable and innovative libations. Assistant General Manager of The Aubrey and Beverage Manager of Mandarin Oriental, Hong Kong Devender Kumar tells us why bartenders are increasingly looking to the Land of the Rising Sun for inspiration.
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Can you explain the philosophy of Kaizen and how it influenced the creation of this new menu?
Kaizen, which translates to ‘continuous improvement’, is a deeply ingrained Japanese principle, and we wanted to bring that mindset into our new cocktail menu at The Aubrey. The idea is that there’s always room to evolve, even with something as established as a classic cocktail. So, we took iconic drinks like the Old Fashioned and Negroni and gave them a new direction by incorporating Japanese ingredients such as shochu and awamori.
We also drew inspiration from drinks that, while perhaps not originally from Asia, became quite popular in the region, like the Bamboo, Red Eye, and Jungle Bird. Additionally, we revisited some of our own previous creations, refining them to reflect how our techniques and ideas have progressed. The goal is to stay true to the essence of The Aubrey while continuously pushing forward.
What inspired you and your team to focus specifically on shochu for this cocktail menu, and how does it differ from other spirits commonly used in cocktails?
My relationship with shochu began in 2019 during a visit to Kyushu, where most shochu is produced. When I joined The Aubrey, we wanted to focus on a spirit that hadn’t been prominently featured in cocktail menus. Shochu had always been present, but it never had a dedicated cocktail program, which was what drew me to it as we wanted something with a clear identity and philosophy – something that stood out in a crowded market. There are plenty of whisky bars, but shochu offers something different, something unexplored.
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Choosing the right shochu wasn’t easy, as it’s not widely known outside Japan, and building a programme around it required some convincing. But for me, showcasing shochu was a passion project; I saw an opportunity to highlight the spirit, which has a vast range of flavours and styles. It’s not like vodka, which is largely a neutral spirit, but offers so much diversity in flavour, depending on the ingredients used and how it’s made.
What truly sets Japanese shochu apart is its authenticity and its deep-rooted connection to specific regions of Japan. Shochu has been consumed for over 500 years, and certain types are geographically tied to their place of origin, much like Champagne. Specific varieties, such as Satsuma Shochu or Kuma Shochu, can only be produced in their namesake regions using local ingredients and water. While Shochu can technically be made outside of Japan, it wouldn’t have the same name or recognition unless it adheres to these strict geographical and production guidelines.
One of the key differences in shochu’s production is the use of koji, a fungus traditionally cultivated in Japan for over a thousand years. Koji is crucial for converting starches into sugar, which yeast then ferments into alcohol. This process is unique to shochu and distinguishes it from many other spirits.
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You’ve mentioned that sourcing premium shochu can be challenging. Can you elaborate on the process of selecting the shochu for the Kaizen menu and what qualities you look for in these spirits?
Initially, sourcing shochu for the Kaizen menu was a challenge because many distributors in Hong Kong didn’t have a deep understanding of the spirit. As we delved deeper and connected with more shochu experts, we gained a better grasp of what was available and how best to incorporate it into our menu.
One of the biggest hurdles is that premium shochu is often available on an allocation-only basis, meaning there are limited quantities released each year. This adds a layer of complexity as we need to ensure we secure enough for the entire year to maintain consistency in our cocktail offerings. When selecting shochu, we focus on quality, authenticity, and how well it complements the flavours in our cocktails, ensuring it aligns with the Japanese ingredients and craftsmanship we want to showcase at The Aubrey.
The Kaizen cocktail menu was developed over six months. Can you walk us through the creative process?
The development of the menu always starts with one crucial element: the theme. Without a clear theme, you’re essentially working without direction, and that can lead to confusion and inconsistency. For instance, our menu was inspired by the philosophy of Kaizen and focused on shochu. This gave us a guiding principle to work within.
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Once the theme is established, the creative process begins by outlining the styles of drinks we want to include. For example, if we know we want a variation of an Old Fashioned, we begin brainstorming how to execute it. Next, we look at the base spirits. For this menu, I purposefully excluded vodka, as I wanted to focus on other spirits. You then decide how many drinks will feature each base spirit. This way, the core of the menu remains cohesive and balanced.
Once the base spirits are set, we begin researching and experimenting with ingredients and flavours. This is where the real creativity happens—finding unique combinations and stories that bring each cocktail to life. It’s important to distill the menu down to specific styles of drinks: maybe one savoury, two spirit-forward, three sweet and sour, and one refreshing. This breakdown also helps with glassware selection, ensuring that each drink is served in the appropriate vessel for the style.
If you skip any step in this process, it can cause problems later on. For example, you might end up with a drink but no suitable glassware, or glassware but no drink that fits it. Writing everything down and planning in layers helps visualize the overall structure of the menu and ensures everything ties together seamlessly.
How does the integration of traditional Japanese ingredients enhance the overall drinking experience?
The integration of traditional Japanese ingredients into our cocktails is a harmonious celebration of the natural beauty and unique character of the Japanese shochu. Each drink is crafted with a meticulous blend of these elements, showcasing the intricate flavours and nuances of this exceptional spirit.
Through this fusion of Japanese shochu and our creative spin, we hope to offer guests a sensory experience that not only captures the essence of spirit but also showcases our unique Kaizen approach to mixology.
My ultimate goal is for at least one guest each day to walk away with a deeper understanding of what we do—whether that’s our shochu program or the unique Japanese ingredients we work with. If just one person leaves with a newfound appreciation for Japanese Shochu or our approach to cocktail making, then I feel like we’ve succeeded. It’s about building that connection, one guest at a time, and helping them see the passion behind what we do.
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How has the feedback been so far?
The feedback regarding the Kaizen menu has been overwhelmingly positive, with guests expressing a keen interest in the philosophy behind it. Kaizen represents a journey of discovery for many individuals who may have heard of the term in passing but have not delved deeply into its essence.
Beyond just the cocktails themselves, there is a sense of educational value that guests take away from their experience. The engagement with the storyline, the drinks, and the products used have been remarkable, fostering a unique connection with those who visit.
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The goal is not merely to serve drinks but to instill a sense of learning and understanding in every guest. Even if just one person grasps the essence of Kaizen, comprehends its significance, and resonates with our philosophy, it is considered a success.
You’ve mentioned that shochu is more widely consumed in Japan than sake or whisky. How do you see the role of shochu evolving in high-end bars globally?
While the global presence of shochu is still in its early stages due to limited production and distribution, there is a growing interest in various markets. Organizations like GSS and individuals such as Christopher Pellegrini and Steven Lyman are championing the promotion of shochu worldwide, transitioning their focus from sake to this lesser-known spirit.
Although shochu is not yet a staple in high-end cocktail bars globally, there is a gradual shift in this trend. Bars in Asia and beyond are beginning to incorporate shochu into their offerings, signalling a changing landscape in the cocktail world.
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What are your aspirations for The Aubrey’s cocktail program moving forward?
Looking ahead, we’re constantly on the lookout for unique and intriguing ingredients, especially from Japan. For example, I recently came across a Japanese tomato liqueur, which was completely unexpected but opens up new possibilities. There’s also soba and chestnut shochu – both underexplored but with incredible potential that I’m eager to experiment with.
I’m also excited about incorporating elements like ice wine into our cocktails. It’s not something commonly used in mixology, but pairing it with Japanese ingredients could lead to something truly special. We’ve already seen how this approach can work with our Noble Man cocktail (below), where we swapped vermouth for dessert wine, resulting in a completely fresh take on the drink.
The Kaizen philosophy will continue to guide us, not as a one-off concept but as an ongoing approach to innovation. We’ll likely revisit and reinvent some of our drinks each year, ensuring a sense of evolution while keeping the core of what The Aubrey represents intact.
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