Whether you live in a locale that gets frosty or you simply like to have an ultimate layer during a fleeting winter, the overcoat is a wardrobe essential for every modern gent.
Ever heard of the term ‘wardrobe envy’? No? Well, we’re not surprised, we only made it up recently, but essentially it’s that brow-beating feeling you get when you see modern men on social media donning the kind of threads you wish were de rigueur in your neck of the woods. One of the items we get wardrobe envy over is the overcoat. Sure, if you live in Beijing or Seoul, you will definitely have an overcoat – maybe a few different coats in different cuts – that you can don to stay sharp and toasty through the winter months.
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However, for many parts of Asia, winter is as quick as prom night sex so all you need is one signature coat that can make its seasonal debut each time the mercury drops. Here are some tips on getting the right overcoat for you.
Firstly, what exactly is an overcoat? Well, as the name suggests, it’s a heavy coat, usually made in wool or a wool blend, that’s designed to go over a suit and keep the elements at bay. Not to be confused with its lighter, more seasonal cousin, the trench coat (although it has similar military origins as a ‘great coat’), the overcoat is designed to keep body heat in and is styled with either a single or double breast, reaching from mid-thigh to just above the ankle (although knee-length is the most popular).
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Traditionally, overcoats have had an air of formality about them; originally worn over uniforms (single breast for the army, double for the navy) and formal attire, including suits and tuxedos, overcoats have evolved very little over the generations even as they’ve been incorporated into increasingly casual styling. However, overcoats still have a proud following – you only have to spend a few minutes on Instagram to see why – and, like the suits they protect, they will never really go out of style (or until climate change finishes having its way with us). In fact, they’ve enjoyed a bit of a renaissance (think Daniel Craig in his Tom Ford coat atop Whitehall) as suits become less common in the office and formalwear becomes something special rather than a day-to-day affair.
The Style
Overcoats come in many different styles, from form-fitting double-breasted reefers to ankle-length greatcoats that will keep you warm as a lover’s embrace but might make you look like a lost Cossack. In terms of length, it’s fairly important to think about what your daily activities are and also the elements into which you will be delving.
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There are many classic styles to choose from, ranging from the Chesterfield, a classic almost minimalist coat with a single breast, single vent, no cuffs, and short lapels; and the single-breasted Covert Coat (popular with the lads in Guy Ritchie’s Lock Stock & Two Smoking Barrels and Snatch), a durable coat with notched lapels and big pockets that’s often crafted in earthy-toned tweed; to the form-fitting French-styled paletot, a double-breasted formal overcoat with a 6×2 button configuration and peaked lapels; and the Guards Coat, another form-fitting style that typically runs to mid-shin and which maintains much of the military bearing of original overcoats.
The Fit
Most coats sit just above the knee, ensuring they retain body heat while not encumbering the wearer. Peacoats tend to be shorter and look great on taller guys, while longer coats will give a sense of height to shorter gents while also serving to broaden their shoulders. If you’re a bigger fella, you might want to go for a fitted coat that tapers at the waist to give more definition and remember that shorter coats lend themselves to more seasonal sensations. Double-breasted coats tend to compliment bigger, rounder guys, while single-breasted coats give length to trimmer men.
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Another consideration is if you plan to wear a suit underneath. While coats were traditionally styled this way, it’s just as common now to see men wearing overcoats over a t-shirt or a simple jumper and the excess space allowed for suits makes the jacket look ill-fitting in this instance. You want to be able to place a fist between your done-up coat and your chest, but at the same time, you don’t want there to be any creases when you button up – that’s a sure sign that your overcoat is too small.
Traditionally, overcoats off the rack will be sized to fit over a suit of the same label size but tend to be a little tubular, while tailored overcoats (and if you were saving up for an excuse to visit your tailor, an overcoat is it) will fit your own shape better.
The Fabric
There’s less choice when it comes to desirable overcoat fabrics. For the most part, you should be reaching for worsted wool for coats that are more style than substance, tweed for something that’s durable and that will only look better with age, and wool flannel for a coat that’s functional but still looks razor sharp. For a little decadence, opt for a cashmere wool blend that will ensure a silky soft exterior that will still retain that all-important body heat.
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The Colour
The same goes for colour – there are a few acceptable hues and a lot that just look tacky. If you’re wearing your overcoat to the office, you can’t go past navy blue, which will make it easy for you to match with the rest of your style (especially in the case of peacoats), whether it’s a suit or a pair of jeans. Dark browns and camel also lend themselves to coats that can transition between formal and informal easily, while black is the only way to go for serious bespoke suits, tuxedos, and formal events.
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