An injection of colour and flare into a corner of Central Hong Kong that sorely needs it, Gough’s on Gough has been one of the most anticipated new restaurants to open in the city this year. But is it all hype? Nick Walton goes to find out.
If you’re a fan of British interiors brand Timothy Oulton, the fact that it has opened a restaurant in Hong Kong will be of great interest. If you’ve never heard of the brand, your response might be a little more measured.
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Sure, the interiors of Gough’s on Gough are beautiful and fascinating in their eclecticism – there’s an aquarium populated by red-bellied piranha, exquisite furniture that hints at a bygone era far more sophisticated and indulgent than today, and marble-topped tables wreathed by leather banquettes the shade of Amedei Porcelana.
But as the better half and I took our tiny table for two, wedged between a wall and a wall-of-noise (two young women fascinated with each others’ infidelities), I couldn’t shake off the feeling of being on a windowless train, entertained but ultimately confined. This is Hong Kong and no matter what you’re sitting on or who designed the chandeliers swaying noiselessly above, space is the true luxury.
Of course, you’re here for the food. Head chef Arron Rhodes, formerly of Singapore’s now-closed Restaurant Andre, Berkshire’s two-starred The Vineyard at Stockcross, and Peru’s Central Restaurante, has created both tasting and a la carte menus of modern British cuisine which take their inspiration from United Kingdom classics with touches of Asia and Latin America. This fusion of cultures is best experienced with the eight-course tasting menu (HK$998 per person or HK$1,428 with wine pairing), a canvas on which Rhodes displays his impressive technique and the influences of his travels.
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Arriving just after our well-made and well-proportioned drinks – a Churchill Martini with Plymouth gin for me and the Bar Italia, with Lairds 80 proof Applejack and Amaro Averna for my companion – a trifecta of bite-sized dishes kicks off the journey. The ‘beef pop shot’ is an intriguing take on the traditional beef tartare, with silky beef and egg yolk wrapped in a crepe and topped with beef heart shavings. The P.B.C. (Potato Beans & Cheese) is comfort food at its best, with gooey cheese topping a baby baked potato, and is followed by the English Seaside, brown crab mousse layered on a crisp rice and squid ink cracker and served on stones set in a timber frame. So far so good.
Rhodes’ time in Peru can be seen in the next dish, baby purple corn with slices of avocado, a sprinkle of kinawa, and a zesty leche de tigre marinade. While the dish is visually appealing, its flavours are not particularly unique and the plate’s contents could fit in a dessert spoon. The North Sea langoustine with sweet melon and cauliflower couscous is a nice marriage that helps say goodbye to summer and hello to Autumn. The fleshy langoustine contrasts nicely with the texture of the puffed rice beneath but overall the dish doesn’t have the bitter-sweet punch we’d expect from the tarragon mayo.
A winner for me was the Australian grass-fed beef with porcini, shallots, and potato, served in two ways (and as separate dishes). The first, a braised short rib with tempura shallots is soul-soothing and decadent and literally melts in the mouth, while the second, a medium-rare fillet with mashed potatoes is certainly tasty but also rather forgettable.
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The last savoury dish, sustainably farmed barramundi with Oscietra caviar and a shellfish cream, is delicate and fresh and vibrant and awakens somnolent palates in time for dessert.
Our two desserts are highlights of the tasting menu: floral, fragrant and voracious, the strawberries and cream, inspired by a British summer, has just enough citrus undertone to cut through the sweetness of the strawberry sorbet and the chunks of honeycomb; while the lychee dish is perfectly balanced with hints of spice from the gingerbread, soothed by the mascarpone.
Throughout the meal service is crisp and attentive, which is truly rare in Hong Kong, and the wine pairings by the sommelier were intelligent and whimsical. Whether the culinary team will continue to play second fiddle to the interiors, or chef Rhodes steps up and starts leaning away from the tried and tested remains to be seen.
Note: Sadly our reservations were justified and Gough’s on Gough has since closed.
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