Nick Walton talks with gin guru Gerry Olino, bar manager at Hong Kong’s newly-opened Dr Fern’s Gin Parlour, about the gin renaissance, innovation, and perfecting the gin and tonic.
To what do you attribute gin’s global comeback?
I would definitely attribute the global gin comeback to the cocktail renaissance and new style gins. Bartenders these days are crafting new cocktails that appeal to the younger generation.
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What’s the biggest difference between today’s gins and those we used to slip from our grandmother’s liquor cupboard?
Today, we have gins that are flavored with new and creative ingredients. Some of these include Monkey 47 with cranberries; Aviation Gin with lavender; and Four Pillars Rare Dry gin with Tasmanian pepperberry leaf and lemon myrtle.
Where did your passion for gin stem from?
The story of how gin has been used in the past due to its diversity in flavor profile and availability is a fascinating one. I have read a lot of books on cocktail history and have come to appreciate the ways in which gin has been used in many classic cocktails.
What kind of gin drinker are you – innovator or purist?
We bartenders always pursue innovation – we are constantly looking for ways to improve our guest’s experience.
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Which gins heralded the renaissance?
Bombay Sapphire should be given credit for the role it played during the renaissance in leading the gin category into a new direction. It was designed and developed to compete with the best vodka brands of the 1980s, during which they dominated the market. The resulting spirit was a gin that was light enough to appeal to vodka drinkers. Although it was not gin that caused the renaissance directly, it showed other brands that gin has the potential to stand up to other spirit categories.
What’s the biggest hurdle to getting people to try gin?
Most people don’t like gin because of the dominating flavor and aroma of juniper. Over the years, many new style gins have surfaced with highlights on other ingredients. Consumers who were previously hesitant about gin now give the spirit another chance. Truth be told, some guests do tell us upfront that no matter what we do, they will not like gin but when we concoct gin cocktails for them, they change their tune and seem to love it.
There’s plenty of good gin joints in Asia – what makes Dr Fern’s different?
Besides having the largest gin collection in Hong Kong (250 gins and counting), at Dr. Ferns Gin Parlour we believe that a gin’s full potential is brought to you by a perfect Gin & Tonic. Each step of the preparation process is important as it guarantees the best experience: the glassware, the ice, the temperature, the botanicals used for garnishes, and the sequence of building the drink.
As opposed to the Spanish styled G&T, served in balloon glasses, we selected special glassware that is tall and slim and designed to trap the carbonation and concentrate the aroma. Besides cutting our ice by hand into a shape that fits our glassware, we freeze the gin and each glass before use because lower temperatures allow the carbonation to be trapped longer. To prevent the tonic water from foaming, we add ice last to our drink. The botanicals used in each G&T are handpicked from an organic farm in Hong Kong, ensuring premium quality and freshness. At Dr. Fern’s, we take our Gin & Tonics very seriously.
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What are some of the gins we have to try?
I would suggest the Blind Tiger Imperial Gin from Belgium and the Truffle gin from England, both of which are only available at Dr. Ferns in Hong Kong.
What are some of the more curious botanicals we’ll find in modern gins?
There is a multitude of botanicals out there but at many micro-distilleries nowadays, they focus on native ingredients. Australia’s Four Pillars, for example, focuses on lemon myrtle, while Sweden’s Hernö gin uses lingonberries.
What’s the most underappreciated gin cocktail?
I would definitely say the Martinez, the forefather of the Martini.
Note: Gerry Olino is now with new Hong Kong bar The Daily Tot.
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