Helping revive the spirit of his ancestors, Hong Kong hospitality stalwart Raphael Holzer has launched Fernet Hunter, a contemporary expression of a timeless Austrian spirit.
You could say Raphael Holzer was born with Fernet, a traditional Italian amaro, running through his veins. The former general manager of popular Hong Kong eateries Yardbird, Ronin, and Sunday’s Grocery grew up in an Italian distilling family and has always had a passion for the heady blend of innovation and tradition that goes into making boutique spirits.
Now, in partnership with his father Gilbert, and Fragrant Harbour friend Neville Kotewall, Holzer’s Fernet Hunter has launched in Asia in time to enjoy a cocktail-driven renaissance of the timeless bitters of Europe.
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“The inspiration to make Fernet Hunter comes from my heritage going back to my great-grandfather, Oskar Holzer, who used to run Stock, a company in the north of Italy that made a very popular Fernet,” says Raphael Holzer. “All these recipes were left with my Dad, who is also a classically trained distiller. Although our family hadn’t produced anything for more than 25 years, I remember growing up with gigantic amounts of alcohol in our backyard. There is an old advertisement from my grandfather’s era, posted in my parent’s restaurant, that talks about the health benefits of Fernet Stock, so revitalizing Fernet for the modern-day was an easy decision to make.”
Made from herbs and spices including myrrh, rhubarb, chamomile, cardamom, aloe, and saffron, this timeless distilled grape spirit is typically served with an espresso after a meal. Fernet Hunter uses a recipe laced with arnica, orrisroot, and lavender that dates from the early 1900s, with ingredients commonly found around the town and forest of Brunnwald in Austria (where Oskar moved Fernet Stock during WWII and where Raphael grew up) during the hunting season – hence the name.
Many of these ingredients have been used for generations for their medicinal value; lavender, for example, not only brings an aromatic quality to the spirit but is also known as a tonic to settle stomachs after a meal. A low-temperature infusion method captures the true essence of each botanical, creating a balanced and unique spirit that lends itself to contemporary mixology thanks to a floral, herbal, bittersweet flavour profile.
For the Holzers, this is a return to their distilling heritage. “I’ve distilled, but mostly for fun,” says Raphael. “When it comes to Fernet Hunter my father Gilbert is definitely taking the lead; this man has so much knowledge and skill and that is why he’s the producer. None of this would be possible without him.”
Traditional spirits like Fernet are enjoying resounding popularity, especially in Asia where bartenders are working hard to create complex, flavourful cocktails that cater better to local markets by boasting less alcohol than classic tipples. Influential mixologists like Giancarlo Macino have helped boost the global profile of bitters, helping the timeless spirit transcend from medicine to bar top essential. Fernet Hunter, with its aromatic depth, honeysuckle and elderflower notes, and clean finish, complements this mixology movement to perfection.
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“The reception of Fernet hunter in Asia has been beyond expectation,” says Raphael. “I do believe that people appreciate the light and fresh approach as well as the versatility; it’s kind of like the gateway drug to the greater world of bitters.”
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