If you’ve always wanted to give in to your more adventurous culinary side, Hong Kong Michelin-starred Écriture presents a new limited-time menu laced with freshly hunted game.
Although for some rural communities hunting remains a daily chore, for most of us urbanites, the most predatorial we get is sneaking our filled basket into the 12-items-or-less line at the supermarket. Because of this behavioral shift, we’ve become, as diners, disconnected with the lay of the land and the many less conventional species that inhabit it. However, the new Furs, Feathers & Iode (the finest Japanese seafood) menu by executive chef Maxime Gilbert promises to change all that.
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Available now until January 2021, the game menu (HK$2,888++ per person; HK$4,000 for wine pairing) begins with Bouchee de Pithivier, a baby deer and hare pie, served alongside homemade grouse and bonito ham on homemade brioche with XO sauce, and a doe and foie gras dashi. This is followed by a traditional French galantine of galinette (red gurnard) and grouse, wrapped in their own skin and served with herbaceous lovage cream, clarified grouse and pheasant jelly, and white truffles.
There is also hagatsuo (bonito) from Nagasaki cooking over a charcoal grill and finishing with grouse sauce and whisky over shavings of lime and lemon zest; delicate partridge, dry aged in butter over twelve days, oven-roasted, then carved “a la volee” with smoked herbs, confit Chasselas grape, kabu puree, and ceps mushroom; and yari ika, Japanese spear squid, stuffed with a medley of game meats including grouse, pheasant, and duck; grilled on a barbecue, and pairing with charred and burnt bell pepper.
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The game menu continues with young doe deer cooked ‘au sautoir’, in a fondue of salsify and spinach, with celeriac emulsion, and a topping of caviar; as well as the chef’s popular Hare a la Ecriture, with the hare stuffed with smoked eel and foie gras and cooked “a la goutte de sang” with live creamy Japanese sea urchin and gorgonzola agnolotti.
Guests will cleanse their palates with fresh quince sorbet and compote, and sweet beetroot salad, and finish with White Truffle Chocolate dessert, made with yeast ice cream, white chocolate, sake lees ganache, caramelized koji, white feuillantine, and shavings of Alba white truffle.
It may sound like something out of a Monty Python film but you’ll appreciate the hunter’s life after this wild, culinary affair.
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