In cities like Singapore, Hong Kong, and Beijing, speakeasies and unique cocktail bars are forging the next evolution in cocktail innovation. From blurring the lines between food and science to taking inspiration from the world of fine arts, Grace Brewer discovers the bars at the forefront of the region’s cocktail scene.
Indulge Experimental Bistro
Taiwan
Known as ‘the cocktail godfather’, Aki Wang (above) brought Indulge Experimental Bistro to the forefront of Taipei’s dynamic cocktail scene by adding Taiwanese twists to international bar trends. Incorporating 268 different local teas and other seasonal ingredients, Wang’s team creates 24 new cocktails every two weeks, in keeping with the Chinese lunar calendar.
This concept is delivered in the first-floor bar ‘From The Land’; while in the basement, the ‘To The World’ bar regularly holds guest bartending events, and serves Indulge originals like the refreshing Victoria Smash, with Hendrick’s Gin, hibiscus, white peach, and lychees.
Atlas
Singapore
An impressive gin and champagne-focused bar, Atlas debuted at number 15 on the 2017 World’s 50 Best Bars list and has proved the worth of Singapore’s cocktail scene, climbing to 4th spot this year. Previously helmed by Roman Foltan, of London’s award-winning Artesian at The Langham, the bar features remarkable collections of drinks from the Gilded Age.
Draped in Deco glamour and boasting a bold jazz-age elegance, the main focus of the bar is the towering library, showcasing 250 sommelier-selected champagnes and over 1,000 gins. Take in all that the grand lobby and bar has to offer with the signature Atlas Martini in hand, made with citrus orange bitters and champagne vinegar.
Vesper
Bangkok
A luxurious cocktail bar made for fans of modern art, or craft cocktails…or both, Vesper pays homage to great artists like David Hockney, Andy Warhol, and Georgia O’Keeffe, through both its décor and drinks list.
The menu – or ‘The Art Book’ to those in the know – features artwork from the period of 1860-1970, and cocktails that claim to be ‘art in liquid form’ that decipher each artist’s underlying meaning. For example, the Seated Woman with Bent Knee by Egon Schiele (1917) is expressed through a wine glass of spiced infused gin, dry vermouth, passionfruit, and grapefruit juices, garnished with wildflowers.
Native
Singapore
Native, a small yet inspiring bar on the second floor of an Amoy Street shophouse, was listed 8th in Asia’s 50 Best Bars 2018 list. Head bartender and owner Vijay Mudaliar offers something entirely unique by highlighting regional spirits like Indian Arrack and Son Tinh Rượu, and weird and wonderful ingredients like Buddha’s hand (a citrus fruit), edible Thai weaver ants, and soursop fruit. Native also incorporates a zero-waste policy, using lotus plants to save on straws and coasters.
Native’s newest signature cocktail aims to embody the local Peranakan culture; The Peranakan is a jackfruit rum infusion, with laksa leaves, candlenut, and palm sugar, and a jelly of coconut pandan and blue pea flowers.
Ratree Bar and Lounge
Chiang Mai
One of martini mastermind Javier de las Muelas’ first openings in Asia, the Ratree Bar and Lounge is located on the outdoor pool deck at Four Seasons Resort Chiang Mai. The bar’s daybeds overlook paddy fields below and Doi Suthep Mountain beyond, but the Dry Martini menu – from Barcelona’s most famous cocktail institution – is the real attraction here.
Featuring Javier’s bespoke Thai-inspired flavour Droplets, the drinks list includes cocktails made exclusively for the Ratree Bar, including the refreshing Chiang Mai Mule, sweet Rock’ n Mango, and spicy Mai Tai.
Manhattan
Singapore
Manhattan, at the Regent Singapore, is currently Asia’s top venue on the 50 Best Bars for the second time, and for good reason. Inspired by the Art Deco-era and New York glamour, the bar is steeped in a golden-caramel glow, reminiscent of the 200-bottle whisky collection. Displayed in a whiskey glasshouse, the curated collection of bottles includes a range of rare and collectable American whiskies.
Award-winning bartender Philip Bishcoff mixes the signature Manhattan using Michter’s US1 Straight Rye whisky, along with a menu of other cocktails inspired by America’s rich mixology history.
The Bamboo Bar
Bangkok
The Mandarin Oriental’s Bamboo Bar may be a classic watering hole offering a haven for music lovers since 1953, but it’s also a cocktail powerhouse in its own right. Still hosting live jazz bands today, The Bamboo Bar is known for creating music-inspired libations such as Riffin’ The Scotch, made with Johnny Walker Gold, mushrooms, pears and agave. Compass is the name of their newest cocktail menu, which aims to provide a ‘liquid journey’ through the five regions of Thailand.
This distinguished bar also integrates elements of Bangkok through its bamboo furniture and tiger skin prints, whilst the award-winning mixology team serves up everything from new creations to old classics behind the mahogany.
Quinary
Hong Kong
Regularly ranked as one of the world’s best bars since it opened on Hong Kong’s Hollywood Road, Quinary takes an inventive food-science approach to create multisensory cocktails for discerning drinkers. With Antonio Lai at the helm, this intimate and innovative bar bagged the Most Creative Cocktail Program at The Bar Awards Hong Kong and Macau 2018.
Quinary’s signatures include the Quinary Bloody Mary, using wasabi vodka, redistilled on-site; and the Oolong Tea Collins, made from Cointreau, Ketel One Citroen vodka, elderflower syrup with Earl Grey caviar and ‘air’, aimed to challenge preconceptions and surprise the senses.
The Old Man
Hong Kong
An ode to the 1952 Ernest Hemingway novel, The Old Man is an eclectic speakeasy in Hong Kong, serving tailor-made cocktails created by acclaimed bartender Agung Prabowo. The newest sensation on the Hong Kong scene, The Old Man serves up libations inspired by Hemingway’s legacy.
Prabowo, along with James Tamang and Roman Ghale, recently released a new cocktail menu, including drinks named after a number of Hemingway novels. A Moveable Feast 1964 is made from rotovap distilled seawater, clear spiced cherry tomato, coconut, and oyster leaves, and is then infused in a cheesewax bottle, before being served on the rocks.
Employees Only
Singapore
The Singapore speakeasy Employees Only was the bar that brought the New York original’s vibe to Asia. Now with three locations spearheaded by Igor Hadzismajlovic – one of the original five friends to create the Manhattan sensation – the Singapore rendition is stylish and modern, with subtle nods towards the Prohibition era. The bar reflects an old world vibe through its Art Deco accents, keeping hallmarks of the original bar like the fortune teller’s lair.
Employees Only principal bartender Steve Schneider serves up NY-inspired cocktails and long drinks like the West Side, made with Charbay Meyer Lemon Vodka, and fresh lemon juice, shaken with mint.
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