New Sheung Wan hideaway 69 on Jervois Bar and Grill marries good honest cuisine with Old World interiors.
It’s great to see Hong Kong’s dining scene roaring back into gear after a rough couple of years. The past few months since the city opened up have heralded a host of new eateries, from elegant takes on heritage to more modern concepts offering a new twist. Among the new openings, 69 on Jervois Bar and Grill is an unassuming yet welcoming little hideaway in Sheung Wan that serves up the kind of cuisine that makes you blissfully guilty.
Located at The Chelsea on Jervois Street, the street-level bistro is a luxurious urban retreat with vaulted ceilings, bold yet classic hunting lodge-esque interiors by Hong Kong-Thai designer Stanley Kwok, and even a private mezzanine dining area, dubbed the Blue Room, that caters to 22, complete with showcase chandelier.
Helmed by culinary director Danielle Giambattista and director of operations and founder Simon McKinless, 69 on Jervois delivers a comprehensive menu of British classic and Western comfort dishes, each elegantly presented and laced with the finest ingredients, and some with insightful local twists.
The menu is divided simply into small plates, grilled dishes, larger plates – which are ideal for sharing – and sides, and the eatery recently launched its four-course Sunday roast (above), perfect for post-indulgence recovery. Highlights of the a la carte menu include seared scallops with pickled daikon, yuzu and mint; succulent hanger steaks paired with charred Brussel sprouts; the sinfully good Jervois burger, with Wagyu beef, bacon and British cheddar, and cauliflower steaks for our vegetarian compadres.
More curious bites include the Welsh Rarebit with homemade lap cheong jam; Orecchiette with Italian sausage and broccoli rabe; potted crab with horseradish cream; and the curious crispy haggis balls paired with a Balmoral whisky cream sauce. Finish with baked apple crumble or the Eton mess and you’d think you’d died and gone to the great gentleman’s club in the sky.
All are complimented by a well-selected and affordable wine list, making this a great spot for first dates and intimate catch-ups that can continue next door, in the venue’s discrete speakeasy, Behind 69 (above), with room for just 14 punters and a cocktail list packed with modern rifts on the classics by bar manager Richard Fernie.
It’s just the good old days.
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