Introducing the inspiring dishes of the Huai River region to Causeway Bay, 10 Shanghai marries elegant, contemporary décor with the breathtaking presentation and subtle flavor combinations of Huaiyang cuisine.
When we think of traditional Chinese fare, images of vast dining rooms, huge tables, and armies of wait staff usually come to mind. Then there’s 10 Shanghai, the newest addition to the Lee Gardens foodscape. Dedicated to the delicate, intriguing dishes of Yangzhou and the Huai River, but with accents taken from Shanghai’s 1930s heyday, 10 Shanghai offers diners a sophisticated ambiance and the opportunity to delve into the intricacies of Huaiyang Cuisine, one of the four classical culinary traditions of China.
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The creation of 1957 & Co Hospitality, 10 Shanghai was designed by Steve Leung, who took his cues from Shanghai’s French Concession, with touches of Chinese Art Deco evident in the timber floors and arched metal latticed partitions. The effect is a space dressed in dark greens and blues that’s as seductive as a late-night jazz club – in fact on some nights songstresses in qipaos perform classics from the 1930s.
Despite the relatively modern inspiration, 10 Shanghai is home to a far more ancient culinary tradition. Huaiyang Cuisine defines the very best dishes of the Huai Region, which includes Yangzhou, Suzhou, and Shanghai, and like the other classical cuisines of China adheres to a strict selection of ingredients. In addition, the chefs of the region are renowned for their knife work, with exquisite plating and carving techniques making each dish
from the extensive 10 Shanghai menu a work of art.
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This is especially evident in the first of three starters – sliced crunchy cucumber with sesame sauce, with the slices fanned out across the plate in a mesmerising pattern. The cucumber is succulent and refreshing and perfectly matches the headiness of the aged Shaoxing Huadiaobrined chicken (a Huaiyang staple); and delicate smokiness of the soft-boiled eggs with black truffle pearl that follow.
Other highlights of our eight-course tasting menu, created by chefs Chen Xiaohe and Luen Wa Wang, include perfectly-cooked crispy smoked chicken with tea leaves, which is revealed from its smoke-filled cloche by a waitress with the flare of a magician pulling a rabbit from a hat; and lobster and silky turnip encased in fine-spun pastry as light and fragrant as flower petals.
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We finish with a sublime Grand Marnier souffle with hints of osmanthus, a sensational sweet touch that rounds off the meal to perfection.
What we Loved
The décor of 10 Shanghai is moody and sexy and helps elevate the uniqueness of the dining experience. We missed the divas, but I can imagine their performance in the main dining room would create an ambiance akin to time travel.
What we Didn’t
Ordering a classic cocktail (a martini, in keeping with the era theme) that wasn’t on the menu caused so much confusion no less than five staff arrived in turn to ask the ingredients. The restaurant does have four imaginative and rather sweet looking signature libations, themed on the four great beauties of ancient China (and only the ingredients for those drinks in the bar) as well as an extensive selection of Chinese red and white wines, vintage yellow rice wines, and Maotai, but in the end, we opted for beer.
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